The jewel in the crown of Calabria

2021 Tropea, the most beautiful village in Italy

Tropea has been selected as “Italy's most beautiful village in 2021” (I Borghi più belli d'Italia). Tropea, the pearl of the Tyrrhenian Sea, according to its website, received this award for its “wonderful combination of sea, sun, art, culture, architecture, gastronomy, and hospitality. Standing on a cliff face 60 meters above the coast, the spectacular view of the sea from the ancient alley is a sight to behold. Calabria, which is not well served by public transport (or at least not as well as it could be) and is off the tourist route, and Campania, just to the north, do not have the glamour of the Amalfi Coast, but are not as touristy as the Amalfi Coast, so Tropea is a hidden resort.

I visited this city in late March, just as almonds and plums were in full bloom in Calabria. These purple leeks were piled high in a roadside stall when I stopped in Philadelphia, a town right next to Tropea. They were the first Italian vegetable I fell in love with, and their name in Italian is Cipolla Rossa di Tropea, which means “red of Tropea” in Italian. In other words, “the red onions of Tropea.

This leek is a peculiar onion that has been cultivated since the Middle Ages around the coastal city of Tropea in the beautiful province of Calabria. They are much sweeter than ordinary onions and have a mildly pungent but uniquely refreshing aroma. According to the locals, a good Toro Pair onion can be eaten like an apple. I am allergic to allium and cannot eat raw garlic or green onions, but not Tropea onions, and I am perfectly fine eating them raw. Sliced or chopped Tropea onions tossed with salad greens and a fine olive oil dressing make a wonderfully delicate salad (simple is better for the taste of Tropea onions). Tropea onions are always the first thing I look for in Italian markets. They are twice as expensive as regular onions, but well worth it. Like other vegetables, they are only sold during the season, so I am always delighted when I see them in the store. While savoring the deliciousness of Tropea onions, I think of the beautiful city of Tropea and the blue waters of Calabria.